Sardinia
North west Sardinia
DH Lawrence passed through Sardinia in 1921, remarking on its geographic location as a place 'lost between Europe and Africa and belonging nowhere'. It is off the beaten track, but therein perhaps lies its appeal. The island's beaches are some of the cleanest and least crowded in Italy. The capital is Cagliari, a good base from which to explore other parts of the island. The National Archaeological Museum of Cagliari contains prehistoric tombs and other significant artefacts from the Punic and Roman periods. The resort of Costa Smeralda is a place of luxury and opulence, not suited to budget tourists, although interesting as a short stop. The Spanish-tinted port of Alghero is the favoured package destination, especially among British holidaymakers. The inland town of Nuoro is a good station from which to explore the Gennargentu mountain range and enjoy the traditional village festivals. The Sardinian landscape is peppered with constructions from the ancient Nuragic civilisation. These stone structures are unique to Sardinia and are must-see sites. They are, however, not easily accessible as they lie in isolated spots throughout the island.



Resorts

See our separate guides to the following Sardinia holiday resorts: Alghero, Costa Smeralda and Cagliari

Attractions

Garibaldi
Garibaldi © Mvuijlst

Garibaldi’s House

Famous revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi lived the last third of his life on the woody, undeveloped island of Caprera, a short ferry-ride from Palau on Sardinia. The trip to view Garibaldi's house and museum is very popular in season, with visitors queuing to catch one of the regular ferries to Caprera. Garibaldi came to live in Caprera in 1855 after a 20-year exile from Italy. He famously led 1,000 Red Shirts on his campaign to conquer Sicily and Naples from here in 1861. The elegant homestead has been preserved as he left it. Tours of the property end with his tomb in the garden.

Address: Caprera Island; Website: www.compendiogaribaldino.it; Transport: Regular ferries run from Palau to La Maddalena, the main island in the Maddalena archipelago, from where it is possible to reach Caprera by a connecting bridge; Opening time: Open Tuesday to Saturday from 9am to 1.30pm, and 2pm to 6.30pm. Closed on Sundays, New Year's Day, 1 May and Christmas Day.; Admission: €4 (concessions available)


Neptune’s Grotto
Neptune’s Grotto © Tobias Helfrich/Dionysos

Neptune’s Grotto (Grotta di Nettuno)

A popular sightseeing expedition from Alghero is a boat ride to Neptune's Grotto, an impressive deep marine cave at the bottom of the sheer cliffs of Capo Caccia. The boat ride takes 45 minutes, and goes past the pretty Bay of Porto Conte. At the cave visitors can take a 45-minute tour entering through the long snaking passage that delves into the rock, to view dramatically-lit and fantastic stalagmites and stalactites. The cave can also be reached by bus from the main terminal in Alghero, or by car, which on arrival necessitates climbing down 650 steps to the cave entrance.

Address: Alghero; Transport: Boats depart regularly (especially in Summer) from the port in Alghero to Neptune's Grotto, and cost about €10. It is also possible to reach the Grotto by road from Alghero to Capo Caccia.; Opening time: Open daily from 9am to 7pm (April to September); 10am to 5pm (October); 9am to 2pm (November to March). Tours run hourly.; Admission: €10 (cave tour)


Nuraghe
Nuraghe © asibiri

Nuraghe

The mysterious Nuragic people, who arrived in Sardinia around 1500 BC, festooned the island with about 30,000 circular fortified structures. Today about 7,000 of these remain standing to be marvelled at by tourists. The complex of Nuraghe in Barumini has been added to UNESCO's World Heritage List and is the finest and most complete example of this prehistoric architecture. The Barumini site can be reached from Oristano or Cagliari on route 131, turning off onto route 197. Other well-preserved Nuraghe can be seen at Sant Antine. At Nora, on the very southern tip of the island, are the remains of an extensive Nuragic village including an amphitheatre, forum, baths, temple and Kasbah. Other good Nuragic sites are near Villanovaforru, Alghero and Abbasanta.

Website: www.nuraghi.org; Opening time: Most Nuraghe are closed in the afternoon and on Sundays; Admission: Most Nuraghe are free


Retablo of the Nativity
Retablo of the Nativity © Sardegna Turismo

The Citadel of Museums

Sardinia's history and culture is conveniently packaged in the Citadel of Museums complex in the centre of the capital, Cagliari. Here is sited the National Archaeological Museum, the National Picture Gallery, the Cardu Siamese Museum and a collection of anatomical waxes by Florentine sculptor Clemente Susini, all administered by the University. The Archaeological Museum houses artefacts from all the ancient cultures of the island, including ceramics from Phoenician tombs, Punic jewellery and Nuragic bronzes. The Picture Gallery contains a collection of contemporary art and sculpture, while the Siamese museum exhibits fascinating items from the east. The unique Collection of Waxes consists of 23 models of parts of the human body, created by Clemente Susini from waxes, resin, tallow, pitch and balsam.

Address: Piazza Arsenale; Website: www.sardegnaturismo.it


Trenino Verde
Trenino Verde

Trenino Verde

Sardinia has an unforgettable coastline, but the interior of the island is equally as beautiful. A fun way to explore it is aboard the Trenino Verde (Little Green Train), a vintage steam locomotive that puffs its way through forests, over bridges and through tunnels into some of the island's most scenic mountain areas. The narrow-gauge train tracks were laid in 1888 to serve the more isolated areas of Sardinia, and the picturesque restored train and locomotive is just as old. The train runs on scheduled routes, connecting Nuoro and Bosa, Sassari and Alghero, Sassari and Palau, and Cagliari and Arbatax. Most popular is the Cagliari to Arbatax route, which departs each morning at 6.45am.

Telephone: +39 079 245 740 (schedules and routes); Opening time: The train runs daily between 30 June and 1 September

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