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 Varanasi © mckaysavage One of the ancient seats of learning in India, Varanasi is
situated between Delhi and Kolkata, at a bend in the sacred Ganges
River. Home to some of the most ancient and revered monasteries in
the world, Varanasi remains the place where scholars come to learn
the ancient knowledge of the Vedas and hold court on the nature of
God.
For over 2,000 years it has been the religious capital of India,
more revered and sacred than all the other places of pilgrimage put
together. Hindus believe that to die in Varanasi is to be forgiven
every sin, to receive instant enlightenment and to immediately be
admitted to heaven, no matter who or what you are. As a result, the
elderly flock here to end their days, and cremation is big business
on the ghats beside the Ganges.
Apart from its religious significance, it is also the hub of
many traditional industries and is world-famous for its silks - in
particular, its silk brocades. The town does a roaring trade with
pilgrims and tourists alike - although, regrettably, this has
resulted in Varanasi developing a bit of a reputation for
pick-pocketing and luggage left (especially on trains entering and
departing Varanasi station).
One of the oldest continuously-inhabited cities in the entire
world, there is a real sense of culture about Varanasi. The city is
home to many poets, musicians, novelists and philosophers - and you
are strongly encouraged to spend some time in the city's tea-houses
and local restaurants, where you are gauranteed to be embroiled in
some of the most interesting conversations of your life.
Attractions  Ghats at Varanasi The Ghats
There are over 100 bathing and burning ghats (literally 'steps')
at Varanasi, but the most sacred is the Manikarnika Ghat, which is
the most auspicious place that a Hindu can be cremated. Outcasts,
known as chandal, carry the bodies through the alleyways of
the old city to the sacred Ganges on a bamboo stretcher swathed in
cloth.
At the top of the Ghat visitors will see large piles of
firewood, with each log weighed on giant scales to calculate the
price of the cremation. Tourists who wish to watch the cremations
are tolerated, but should dress conservatively and leave their
cameras behind. Tourists should also be aware that, although
witnessing a ceremonial cremation is considered a 'must-do'
activity in India, it can be quite a harrowing and emotional
experience, and one that shouldn't be undertaken lightly.
The nearby Dasaswamedh Ghat (the 'ghat of ten sacrificed
horses') is said to be the spot where Lord Brahma made a sacrifice
to pave the way for the return of Shiva - and is one of the best
ghats from which to take in the riverside activity. Crowds of
people congregate here not only for a ritual bath, but also to do
yoga, get a massage, offer blessings, buy flowers, play cricket or
work on their karma by giving money to beggars. It is also a good
place to arrange a dawn boat trip, to watch the beauty of Varanasi
manifest as the sun rises over the city. Dotted around the ghats
are numerous temples - the highlight being the Golden Temple, with
its stunning, resplendent towers.
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