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 Marblework at Ranakpur Udaipur was once the capital of the powerful state of Mewar, and
still takes great pride in being the only one of the seven major
Rajput states to have upheld its Hindu allegiance in the face of
Muslim invasions. The Mewar household is the longest-lasting of all
the ruling powers in Rajasthan, and possibly the oldest surviving
dynasty in the world. The current ruler is the seventy-sixth in an
unbroken line of Mewar rulers dating back to 568 AD.
Undoubtedly the most romantic city in Rajasthan, and perhaps the
whole of India, Udaipur is situated 200 miles (320km) southwest of
Jaipur. The city is centred around Lake Pichola and has inevitably
been dubbed the 'Venice of the East'. Two island palaces, Jagniwas
and Jagmandir, sit on the lake - the former is now the luxurious
Lake Palace Hotel. The majestic City Palace towers over the lake
and is bedecked by balconies, turrets and cupolas.
Despite the many attractions in and around the city, the real
joy of Udaipur lies in soaking up its atmosphere - taking in the
view from a rooftop restaurant, wandering around the relatively
hassle-free inner-city, enjoying a drink on the edge of the lake,
or taking a boat to Jagmandir Palace past the ghats (riverside
landings), where washerwomen congregate and a real 'slice of Indian
life' unfurls before your eyes.
Attractions  Udaipur City Palace © soylentgreen23 Udaipur Lake Palace
The white walls of Udaipur's Lake Palace soar above the peaceful
waters of Lake Pichola, topped by ornamental battlements and
turrets. The sprawling palace has been developed by successive
maharanas since the foundation of Udaipur in 1559. These days, part
of the palace is home to the current maharana, a section of it is a
first-class hotel (with the best restaurant in the city), and the
remainder is a museum.
The approach to the City Palace is through the Elephant Gate,
Hati Pol. The Great Gate (Bara Pol) leads to the first court, where
eight carved arches mark the spot where the rulers were once
weighed against gold or silver, the equivalent value of which was
then distributed among the poor. Beyond the Tripolia Gate is the
arena where the elephant tug-of-war competitions were staged, past
which are a series of courtyards, overlapping pavilions, terraces,
corridors and hanging gardens.
The Krishna Vilas honours a 19th-century Udaipur princess, who
poisoned herself to avoid the dilemma of choosing a husband from
the two rival households of Jodhpur and Jaipur. Its walls display
miniature paintings portraying royal processions, festivals and
hunting parties. Further along, a glass mosaic gallery contains
superb portraits and stained glass, and offers a wonderful
panoramic view of the city below. Set into the walls of the
17th-century Mor Chowk are brilliant mosaics of three peacocks
showing the three seasons: summer, winter and monsoon. Perhaps the
most splendid rooms in the palace are the women's quarters, Zenana
Mahal, with their ornate alcoves, balconies and coloured
windows.
Udaipur's Lake Palace really does have a storybook quality to it
- both in terms of its looks and its history - and it is rightly
considered by all and sundry to be one of India's stellar tourist
attractions.
Transport: The palace is situated 4km away from the main bus stand and railway station. Local transport to the Palace from there includes rickshaws, tongas and local buses;
Opening time: Open daily, from 9.30am to 4.30am
Excursions Jain Temples of Ranakpur
Forty miles (60km) north of Udaipur are the Jain temples of
Ranakpur. It is the largest temple complex of its kind in India,
and boasts some truly staggering marble work - easily on a par with
any in Asia. The main temple was built in 1439, and is dedicated to
the first tirthankara Adinath, whose image is enshrined in its
central sanctuary. The temple is two or three storeys high in
parts, and its roof, topped with five large shikharas, undulates
with tiny spires that crown the small shrines to Jain saints lining
the temple walls. Within are 1444 pillars, each sculpted with
unique and intricate designs, and dissecting the 29 halls. The
carving on the walls, columns and the domed ceilings is superb.
Friezes depicting the life of the tirthankara are etched into the
walls, while musicians and dancers have been modelled out of
brackets between the pillars and the ceiling. While exploring the
temples at Ranakpur, visitors may see Jain monks walking about with
masks on their faces to avoid eating insects: the most important
teaching of Jainism is 'Ahimsa', meaning non-violence, and this is
applied to all sentient beings. Many monks also carry a brush to
sweep surfaces to avoid standing on bugs. Ranakpur's isolated
position means it is not on the major tourist trail, but it makes a
good stop for those travelling between Jaipur and Udaipur.
Address: Ranakpur, Pali district;
Opening time: Open daily, from 12pm to 5pm
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